Smith Street (Mocha) Bagels, Brooklyn

The two guys behind the counter laughed when I commented on Mocha Bagels' overwhelming offerings. They playfully bantered with me while I pondered the possibilities. I expected coffee. I expected bagels. The pancakes and extensive assortment of prepared meats and cold salads came as a surprise.

Before reading their labels, I mistook mounds of cream cheese for gelato. Everywhere I turned, a new group of items jumped out.

Call it a convenience store, coffee bar, bakery, bagel shop or deli. Regardless of how you categorize Mocha Bagels, it has options even for picky eaters like me.

I passed over a muffin and croissant since they weren't house made. Then, after extensive deliberation, decided to order a Mocha Special Bagel. I'd read online that it was a top seller. I chose a pumpernickel bagel but did not otherwise alter the Special's makeup. The slightly chewy bread provided a balanced base for ripe tomatoes, pleasingly plump capers, lox, and ultra-creamy cream cheese. Although I finished eating it nearly two hours later, this sandwich remained fresh and flavorful.